A conversation with P&G beauty scientist Laura Goodman, in which we ask all our burning questions about serums, lotions and whether or not you really need a separate night cream.

• FOF: What’s the best way to moisturize?
  
  • Laura Goodman: In older women, the rapid descent of hormone levels can cause a dramatic loss of moisture. You may find that your skin quickly soaks in your usual moisturizer and still feels dry. Layering products is a great way to counteract that. 
  • First, to hydrate, you want to use a serum that’s packed with antioxidants, which can help ward off environmental damage. Antioxidants do well in serums—the skin absorbs them very quickly.  In the morning, I use one from DDF called Mesojection. At night, I use the new DDF Restoring Night Serum, which is packed full of goodies, including the powerful antioxidant, turmeric, and some heavy hitting anti-aging ingredients.
  • At the same time you apply the serum, you can also apply your eye cream. 
• Do I need a separate eye cream?
  • A lot of people think eye creams are just marketing schemes, but they’re really not. Eye creams are specially formulated not to migrate on the skin. That way, they won’t run into the eye and irritate it—which regular moisturizers can do. Also, the skin around the eyes is more delicate and has needs that are a little bit different than the rest of the face, so eye creams really are special formulations.
• So why don’t they formulate regular moisturizer not to migrate?
  • They can, but it doesn’t feel as good on thicker skin. Moisturizers typically contain a blend of emollients and humectants that spread well and move easily across the skin.
  • For me, it’s all about layering and hydration, so I actually use two eye creams: Clinique All About Eyes, which absorbs very quickly, followed by DDF Advanced Firming Eye Concentrate. I’ve used All About Eyes since I was 18, but my skin has aged,  so I can use that extra layer to get a dewy, hydrated look and work on the signs of aging around my eyes
  • Next you apply the anti-aging layer.
• I use an anti-aging moisturizer with spf 30. Would I be better off using two separate products: a moisturizer and a sunscreen?
  
  • For a long time it was difficult to formulate anti-aging formulas with sunscreens. Some of the ingredients were not compatible. We’ve spent a lot of time and effort making these formulas, because the average busy consumer doesn’t want to apply 50,000 layers. Now we have an optimized formula where both products work as well together as they would separately. 
  • But I am a proponent of layering products. If you applied two separate products, you would benefit from extra moisturizing.
• Should I use a lotion or a cream formula?
  • It can be a lotion or a cream. One of my former university professors recently turned 62 and she called me and she’s like, ‘my God, help!’ I sent her the same formula in a lighter lotion and in a heavier cream formula. She chose the cream because it felt better on her skin, but both products had the same ingredients.
• Do I need a separate night cream?
  • At night, your skin barrier changes. Your skin has a circadian rhythm, just as your whole body does, and it’s triggered by light. During the day, your skin is actively defending against UV rays, pollution and dirt that are bombarding it. But at night, the barrier comes down, and your skin goes into restoration and replenishing mode. Permeability and penetration increases, so this is the time to use a really hydrating product. This is the time to take out that heavier, super moisturizing cream.
  • Night is a great time to incorporate a hydrating mask. Many people think of the classic “clay mask”, but I would not recommend those for aging skin. Instead, try a cloth mask that’s soaked in a super-hydrating serum. The cloth creates occlusion—like putting a bandage on the skin—which just drives the moisture deep down. I LOVE the SK-II masks. The Facial Treatment Mask completely drenches the skin in moisture and the SK-II 3D Redefining Mask is an incredible 2-piece mask designed for firming and anti-aging. Also, Pro-X just came out with a new product, Olay Professional Pro-X Intensive Firming Treatment Mask with anti-aging technology and intense hydration benefits.